Dandong Aston

Dandong lies in the southeastern border of Liaoning Province, in a region historically known as Manchuria. It is a port city, sitting on the modest Yalu River just as it’s estuary opens up to the Yellow Sea. This river divides China and North Korea, and Dandong is the main border crossing between these two nations.

The region of southern Liaoning is mountainous and forested, enjoying a pleasant climate with 4 distinct seasons. Summers stay relatively mild with long hours of daylight; winters dip below freezing and bring occasional snow. Spring and autumn are long and pleasant. Moderate amounts of rainfall bestow the region with vast forests and agricultural productivity.

Dandong suffered heavily during the Korean War from American bombing due to its use by the Chinese military at that time. The bridge connecting it with Sinuiju, the North Korean town on the opposite bank of the river, was destroyed. Since that time the city has developed into the economic and social hub of the region. Today the community in Dandong numbers nearly 700,000, mostly Han Chinese, North Korean, Manchu, and Hui.

In addition to all of the major Chinese cooking styles represented, Dandong boasts some of the best and most affordable Korean cuisine to be found anywhere in the world outside of that country. There are hundreds of North Korean immigrant families who have opened small restaurants throughout the city. Evenings spent dining with them learning about their culture and personal histories are most fascinating, and provide a unique window into one of the most pressing situations on the world stage.

Dandong is developing a tourist economy based upon its border status. Because crossing into North Korea is so difficult, boatmen have taken to bringing tourists across the river right up to the opposite bank on mini “cruises”. The easternmost extension of the Great Wall is just outside the city and attracts modest numbers, as does the Korean War Museum in the center of town. For many the city itself ends up the most interesting attraction with its international population, shady streets, atmospheric markets, and BBQ stalls on every corner.

The Western presence in Dandong is minimal. This remains very much a small Chinese city on the fringes. There is the ubiquitous KFC and a small handful of other establishments that cater to the occasional passing foreign tourist, but by and large the twenty or so resident Westerners live life with the locals and enjoy an immersion experience.

Dandong is connected to the rest of Northeast China through an extensive rail network. Overnight trains pull out nightly for Beijing, Haerbin, and Changchun. Shenyang and Dalian are each 3 ½ hours away. The border regions up along the Yalu River in Liaoning and Jilin provinces are some of the most fascinating rural areas in China and easily assessable with local busses.